If you’re about to paint your kitchen cabinets, I’m going to save you from the two most common DIY regrets: sticky cabinets and chips that show up the second you reinstall the hardware.
I’ve seen cabinet makeovers look incredible for two weeks, then start peeling around the handles like a bad sunburn. And it’s almost never because the person “painted wrong.” It’s usually because they picked the wrong type of paint for cabinets or skipped one prep step that matters more than any brand name.
So here’s the honest answer up front:
The best paint to use on kitchen cabinets is a high quality waterborne alkyd or urethane reinforced enamel.
Those two paint types dry harder than standard wall paint, resist sticking, and hold up to wiping, grease, and daily abuse.
Now let’s break down exactly what that means, which products are worth it, how to choose based on your cabinet material, and what rules prevent regret later.
What “Best Cabinet Paint” Actually Means
When I say “best,” I’m not talking about what looks pretty on day one. I mean paint that:
- Dries hard, not rubbery
- Does not stay tacky when doors touch the frame
- Resists chips around knobs and pulls
- Handles grease and cleaners without dulling
- Levels out so you do not see heavy brush marks
- Cures reliably so it feels like a factory finish, not craft paint
Standard latex wall paint fails here. It can look nice at first, but it tends to stay softer and scuffs easier on cabinets.
Cabinets need a paint made for trim, doors, and high touch surfaces.
The Best Types of Paint for Kitchen Cabinets
1) Waterborne Alkyd (My Top Choice for Most DIYers)
This is the modern cabinet paint sweet spot. It behaves like oil paint in how it levels and hardens, but it cleans up with water and has less odor than old school oil.
Why I like it:
- Smooth finish, self-leveling
- Harder cure than typical latex
- Durable for daily cleaning
- Easier cleanup than oil based
Tradeoff:
- Longer dry and cure time than some acrylics
- Requires patience between coats
2) Urethane Reinforced Acrylic Enamel (Second Best, Very Durable)
This is a tough water based enamel designed for trim and cabinets. It cures harder than standard acrylic and holds up well, especially if you want slightly faster drying than alkyd.
Why it works:
- Strong durability
- Lower odor
- Easier recoat windows
- Good for rolling and brushing
Tradeoff:
- Can show brush strokes if you overwork it
- Slightly less “oil-like” leveling than alkyd
3) Traditional Oil Based Enamel (Durable But Usually Not Worth It Now)
Oil based enamel still cures very hard, but it comes with heavy fumes, messy cleanup, and it can yellow over time, especially on white cabinets.
Why people still use it:
- Extremely hard finish
- Classic durability
Why I usually skip it:
- Odor and VOCs
- Cleanup with solvents
- Yellowing risk
The Best Cabinet Paint Products (Practical Picks)
Here are the products I would actually recommend based on performance, DIY friendliness, and long term durability.
Best Overall: Benjamin Moore Advance
Type: waterborne alkyd
Finish: satin or semi-gloss
Why it’s a favorite:
- Levels beautifully
- Dries into a hard, furniture-like finish
- Looks professional even with a roller if you work in thin coats
Watchouts:
- Needs good ventilation and time
- Cure time is real, so you cannot rush reassembly
Best from Sherwin Williams: Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel
Type: urethane reinforced enamel
Finish: satin or semi-gloss
Why it’s great:
- Very durable, less sticky feel
- Easier for some people to work with than alkyd
- Great wipeability
Watchouts:
- Prep still matters, do not skip primer
- Avoid thick coats or you get texture
Best for Speed and Toughness: INSL-X Cabinet Coat
Type: acrylic urethane enamel
Finish: satin or semi-gloss
Why people love it:
- Dries faster than Advance
- Cures hard
- Designed specifically for cabinets
Watchouts:
- Can show roller texture if you do not use the right roller
- Still needs good prep
Best Budget Option: Behr Alkyd Semi-Gloss Enamel
Type: alkyd enamel
Finish: semi-gloss
Why it’s solid:
- Accessible, widely available
- Tough finish if applied properly
- Good for budget makeovers
Watchouts:
- Results depend heavily on prep and application
- Less forgiving than premium lines
Matching Paint to Your Cabinet Material
This is where people get burned. The “best paint” changes if your cabinets are wood, laminate, or previously painted.
Solid Wood Cabinets
This is the easiest scenario.
What works:
- Waterborne alkyd or urethane enamel
- Standard bonding primer
- Light sanding for adhesion
If your wood grain shows and you want it smooth, plan on extra prep (grain fill or multiple primer coats). If you do not mind some texture, simple prep is enough.
MDF Cabinets
MDF paints well but hates moisture at raw edges.
Rules for MDF:
- Prime the edges well, twice if needed
- Use a quality bonding primer
- Keep coats thin to avoid swelling
Once sealed properly, MDF finishes beautifully.
Laminate Cabinets
Laminate is the tricky one because it is non porous.
Rules:
- Degrease thoroughly
- Scuff sand lightly
- Use a true bonding primer
- Then apply cabinet enamel
If you skip the bonding primer, you will eventually get peeling, usually around handles first.
Previously Painted Cabinets
You need to figure out what you are painting over.
If existing paint is stable:
- Clean and degloss
- Light sand
- Prime only where needed
- Repaint
If existing paint is failing:
- Scrape and sand smooth
- Prime properly
- Then repaint
Painting over peeling paint without fixing it is basically guaranteed regret.
Primer: The Step That Makes Cabinets Last
If I could scream one thing into every cabinet DIY project, it would be: primer is not optional.
When You Absolutely Need Primer
- Laminate cabinets
- Stained wood (to prevent bleed through)
- Glossy finishes
- Any repaired areas or filler spots
- Any surface you deglossed or sanded unevenly
Best Types of Primer for Cabinets
- Bonding primer for slick surfaces
- Stain blocking primer for knotty wood or tannins
If you are painting oak or anything with tannin, a good stain blocker prevents yellow bleed through that ruins white cabinets.
Best Paint Finish for Kitchen Cabinets: Satin vs Semi-Gloss
This is personal, but here’s how I decide.
Satin
- Softer look, less shiny
- Hides minor imperfections better
- Shows fewer fingerprints
This is my pick if the cabinets are older or the kitchen gets a lot of natural light and I want a calmer look.
Semi-Gloss
- More reflective, brighter look
- Easier wipe down for grease
- Feels slightly tougher under frequent cleaning
This is my pick if you cook a lot and wipe cabinets often.
My practical rule:
If you have kids, heavy cooking, or constant wiping, go semi-gloss. If you want a softer modern look and slightly more forgiveness, go satin.
The Prep Routine That Prevents Peeling
Cabinet paint fails mostly because of grease and poor adhesion. My prep routine is boring but it works.
Step 1: Label and Remove Doors
- Number each door and hinge with tape
- Put hardware in labeled bags
This saves hours later.
Step 2: Degrease Like You Mean It
Areas around knobs and near the stove are usually coated in invisible grease.
Use:
- Warm water + dish soap, then rinse
- Or a dedicated degreaser, then rinse
Let everything dry fully.
Step 3: Sand for Adhesion
You are not trying to strip, you are trying to dull.
- 120 to 150 grit for scuff sanding
- Focus on edges and corners
- Wipe dust off completely
If you truly hate sanding, use a deglosser, but sanding still gives the best bite.
Step 4: Prime
- Brush into corners
- Roll flat areas
- Let dry fully
I often do a quick, light sand on primer with 220 grit before paint. That is what makes the finish feel smooth.
Application Tips for a Smooth “Factory” Look
Brush and Roller Method
This is the easiest DIY method that still looks good.
Tools that help:
- High quality angled synthetic brush for corners
- Microfiber mini roller for flat areas
Rules:
- Thin coats always
- Do not overwork the paint
- Keep a wet edge so you do not get lap marks
Spraying
If you want the smoothest finish and you have the patience to mask everything, spraying is amazing.
But spraying adds:
- Setup time
- Ventilation needs
- Cleanup time
- Practice time
If you have never sprayed, test on cardboard first.
Drying vs Curing: The Biggest Cabinet Paint Trap
Most people treat “dry to touch” like “ready for life,” and that is when cabinets get dented and sticky.
- Drying is when the surface is no longer wet
- Curing is when the paint reaches full hardness
Most cabinet paints need at least 7 days to cure enough for normal use, and sometimes up to 30 days for full hardness depending on humidity and product.
My rule:
Do not reinstall hardware or slam doors for at least a week if you can help it. Treat the cabinets gently. It pays off.
My Practical “No Regret” Cabinet Painting Checklist
- Choose waterborne alkyd or urethane enamel
- Use satin or semi-gloss
- Clean and degrease thoroughly
- Scuff sand for adhesion
- Use a bonding primer when needed
- Apply thin coats
- Sand lightly between coats if you want ultra smooth
- Let it cure before heavy use
FAQs
What is the best paint type for kitchen cabinets?
A high quality waterborne alkyd (like Benjamin Moore Advance) or urethane reinforced enamel (like Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane). These dry harder and resist wear better than standard wall paint.
Can I paint cabinets without sanding?
You can reduce sanding, but you still need proper prep. If you skip sanding, use a deglosser and a high quality bonding primer. On slick or glossy cabinets, skipping both sanding and bonding primer usually ends in peeling.
What finish is easiest to clean: satin or semi-gloss?
Semi-gloss wipes clean the easiest, especially for grease. Satin hides fingerprints better. Both are common and durable when using cabinet grade enamel.
How many coats do I need?
Typically:
- 1 coat primer
- 2 coats paint
Sometimes 3 thin coats paint for darker colors or tricky coverage.
How long before I can use the cabinets normally?
They can feel dry in a day, but curing takes longer. I baby them for 7 days and avoid harsh cleaning for a few weeks.
The Real Takeaway
If you want cabinets that stay smooth and durable, do not chase the cheapest can on the shelf. Choose a cabinet-grade enamel paint, prime correctly, and give it time to cure.
That combination is what keeps your cabinets from peeling, sticking, and looking worn right after you worked so hard.
